Currently farmers are harvesting the last few grapes from their vineyards, not least in Siġġiewi. In fact, our village has the most extensive vineyard area in Malta - one can find more than 560,000 square meters of vineyards in Siġġiewi alone. This love for viticulture in our village goes back hundreds if not thousands of years.
In fact, evidence of the cultivation of grapes and wine production in Siġġiewi dates back to the Roman era. This is evident from the various stone-dug wine troughs found in the fields towards the areas of San Lawrenz (Salib tal-Għolja) and of Wardija ta' San Ġorġ. These are troughs similar to those found all over Europe, where the Romans had conquered. (Bugeja 2011)
During the same era, wine consumption continued to increase, also affecting the production of wine in Siġġiewi. Many villas were built around Malta, where the house (which served as a dwelling for both the owner and the slaves) would be in the middle of the country, many of which were dedicated to the growing of vines and olive trees. One of these villas is the one located in Fawwara, known as Governor Dorman's farmhouse. Around this villa, there was a significant amount of grapevines, which were used for wine production. In fact, under the villa, there is a large underground chamber for storing wine. At the end of this chamber, there is a well with a long wellhead. This was crucial in controlling the temperature and air circulation. This technique was also used in parts of Italy. (Vassallo 2014)
After the Arabs conquered the island from the Byzantines, the consumption of wine started to decline, as Muslims do not consume wine. However, with the arrival of the Knights, wine consumption among the Maltese revived. Siġġiewi's connection with wine during this period was documented by Ġan Franġisk Abela in 1647 when he wrote that within the area of Ġebel Ciantar, there were vineyards with very fertile soil for grape cultivation. This was due t the nearby freshwater spring. The grapes that grew there were of a special type and was called "Bessulet el Bakra," meaning the cow's udder. The topography of the area was beneficial for the vineyard, as the fields face the south, thus receiving the highest amount of sunlight while being sheltered from the winds due to the high surrounding cliffs. (Cassar 2011)
Furthermore, Grand Master Lascaris continued to strengthen the connection between Siġġiewi and wine-making by building a vineyard (similar to an Italian masseria) on Wied Ħesri. We can see this vineyard as we walk along Blat il-Qamar Street on the right as an enclosed garden (the doorway is walled-up). (Vassallo 2014)
As time went on, viticulture in Siġġiewi continued to grow, following the long tradition of centuries. Wine bars (ħwienet tax-xorb) began to spread throughout the village, especially in the main square and the Misraħ San Ġwann area. However, modernization has altered the landscape with respect to these traditional wine taverns/bars. Today, we are fortunate to still have many Siġġiewi farmers working in viticulture. Their dedication has also increased the quality of Maltese wine. We have also seen an increase in wine producers that dot our countryside. In recent years, we have begun to celebrate this cultivation as a village during the Festa Għeneb. This year, the festival will take place over this weekend in the main square - I encourage you to attend and celebrate one of the elements that make us Siġġiewi residents unique - viticulture! See you there!
References
Bugeja, A. (2011). Ħwat antiki għall-għasir tal-għeneb fis-Siġġiewi?. Festa [San Nikola, Siġġiewi] 2011, 109, 111.
Cassar, G. (2011). Il-Fawwara. Festa ta' San Nikola, [Siġġiewi,] 2011, 75, 77, 79.
Vassallo, N. (2014). Id-dwieli u l-inbid fis-Siġġiewi fl-imgħoddi u llum. Festa [San Nikola, Siġġiewi] 2014, 89, 91, 93-95.
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